Category: West Africa

Best Things to Do in St. Louis Senegal – A Complete Travel Guide

Post author By Sandra Enuma
Post date March 8, 2025
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If you’re a nature lover, someone who enjoys learning about African history, or just looking for the authentic Senegalese experience, you must include St Louis on your itinerary. This is especially best if you have more than 5 days to spend in Senegal. Here’s your ultimate guide to the best things to do in St. Louis.

Getting There

St. Louis is located in northern Senegal, about 320 km from Dakar. The most common way to get there is by road. You can take a bus or a shared taxi from the Gare Routière des Beaux Maraîchers in Dakar at approximately 5000CFA per person for a 4-5 hour journey.

If you prefer more comfort, private car hires are available for as low as $30 per day (for small cars) to as much as $300 per day for larger, premium SUVs. While there’s no commercial airport in St. Louis, travelers can fly into Dakar’s Blaise Diagne International Airport and continue the journey by road.

Things To Do in St. Louis, Senegal

1. Explore the Historic Old Town

Walking through the narrow streets of St. Louis feels like stepping into a living museum. The pastel-colored colonial buildings, wrought-iron balconies, and wooden shutters reflect its French colonial past.

Visit the Musée de Saint-Louis to get a deeper look into the city’s history and stop by Place Faidherbe, the central square lined with historic buildings. The charm of Old Town isn’t just in its architecture but in the friendly locals who bring the city to life with their culture and music.

2. Visit the Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary

Just an hour’s drive from St. Louis lies Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary, one of the world’s most important wetlands and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This sprawling reserve is home to over three million migratory birds, including pink flamingos, pelicans, herons, and cormorants. Take a boat trip through the waterways for an up-close experience with Senegal’s rich birdlife and spot crocodiles, warthogs, and even the occasional monitor lizard.

3. Stroll Along the Faidherbe Bridge

Connecting St. Louis Island to the mainland, Faidherbe Bridge is an engineering marvel with a fascinating backstory. Originally believed to be designed by Gustave Eiffel, the bridge was actually imported from France in the 19th century. Walking across it offers panoramic views of the Senegal River, fishing boats, and the old town’s skyline, making it a great spot for photography, especially at sunset.

4. Experience Local Life at the Fisherman’s Quarter

For an authentic taste of Senegalese daily life, head to Guet Ndar, the lively fisherman’s quarter. This area is a sensory feast—wooden fishing boats painted in vibrant hues line the shores, fishermen haul in their catch, and the aroma of grilled seafood fills the air. It’s a fantastic place to interact with locals, capture stunning photos, and witness the energy of St. Louis’s fishing industry.

5. Experience the Saint-Louis Jazz Festival

If you’re visiting in May, don’t miss the Saint-Louis Jazz Festival, one of Africa’s most prestigious music events. The city comes alive with the sounds of jazz, blues, and traditional African rhythms, drawing artists and music lovers from around the world. Even outside the festival season, live music is a staple in St. Louis, with plenty of bars and clubs offering a lively nightlife scene.

6. Take a Boat Trip on the Senegal River

A boat trip along the Senegal River offers a different perspective of St. Louis, gliding past mangroves, traditional villages, and herds of grazing cattle. Some tours even include visits to small islands where you can interact with local communities and learn about their way of life.

7. Explore Langue de Barbarie National Park

Just south of St. Louis, Langue de Barbarie National Park is a paradise for nature lovers. This narrow strip of land between the Atlantic Ocean and the Senegal River is home to diverse wildlife, including pelicans, flamingos, and sea turtles. The park’s clean beaches make it an ideal spot for relaxation or birdwatching excursions.

8. Discover the Island of Sor

Located across the bridge from the old town, Sor is a bustling district with markets, craft shops, and local eateries. It’s less touristy than the historic center, providing a more immersive experience of contemporary Senegalese life. Visit the Marché de Sor to shop for handmade crafts, colorful fabrics, and unique souvenirs.

9. Learn About St. Louis’s Slave History

St. Louis played a significant role in the transatlantic slave trade, and while much of its dark past has been erased, some remnants remain. Guided tours can take you through key sites, offering a sobering but important perspective on the city’s history.

10. Enjoy the Local Cuisine

St. Louis offers some of Senegal’s most delicious cuisine. Be sure to try Thiéboudienne (the grand ancestor from which jollof rice originates from), Senegal’s national dish of fish and rice, flavored with tomatoes and spices. Yassa poulet, a marinated chicken dish with onions and mustard, is another local favorite. If you’re feeling adventurous, sample mafé, a peanut-based stew served with meat and rice.

Given its coastal location, St. Louis will always have fresh seafood. Try the grilled prawns, barracuda, or octopus at one of the riverside restaurants. Pair your meal with bissap, a hibiscus-infused drink popular throughout Senegal.

Where to Eat

St. Louis offers a variety of dining options, ranging from traditional Senegalese cuisine to international flavors. Some top-rated spots include:

La Résidence – A stylish restaurant offering a mix of French and Senegalese dishes in a charming colonial-style setting.
Flamingo – Overlooking the river, this restaurant is known for its fresh seafood and relaxed ambiance.
La Kora Chez Peggy – A cozy spot that serves delicious homemade Senegalese meals with a welcoming atmosphere.
Chez Dasso – A local favorite serving authentic thiéboudienne and other traditional Senegalese dishes.

Where to Stay in St. Louis

St. Louis offers a variety of accommodations to suit different budgets, from affordable guesthouses to upscale hotels with premium amenities.

Budget-Friendly Stays

If you’re looking for a comfortable stay without breaking the bank, these options offer great value:

Siki Hotel – A charming and affordable guesthouse with a welcoming atmosphere.
Ndar Ndar House – A cozy, budget-friendly option with a communal feel, perfect for backpackers and solo travelers.
Cap Saint-Louis – A relaxed, low-cost hotel conveniently located near the city center.

Upscale & Luxury Stays

For a more refined experience, these hotels provide top-notch service, elegant settings, and stunning views:

Au Fil du Fleuve – A beautifully restored colonial house offering a boutique experience with artistic decor.
Hôtel de la Poste – A historic hotel with colonial charm and breathtaking views of the Senegal River.
La Résidence – A stylish boutique hotel with elegant rooms, a tranquil courtyard, and an on-site restaurant.
Diamarek Hotel – Located on the Langue de Barbarie, this beachfront hotel boasts modern amenities and a serene coastal vibe.

Best Shops to Visit

Shopping in St. Louis is a unique experience, with plenty of opportunities to buy authentic Senegalese crafts and souvenirs. Having explored the city myself, I can say that each shop offers something special:

Aux Délices de St. Louis – A bakery known for its fresh pastries and rich, buttery croissants, perfect for breakfast or an afternoon treat.
Librairie Clairafrique – A charming bookstore stocked with African literature, history books, and travel guides, ideal for book lovers.
Galerie Arte – A great spot for locally made paintings, sculptures, and textiles, reflecting the artistic soul of St. Louis.
Village Artisanal – This craft market offers handmade jewelry, woven baskets, and leather goods, all crafted by local artisans.
Marché de St. Louis – The city’s central market is the best place to experience local commerce and find everything from spices to traditional fabrics.

Practical Travel Tips for Visiting St. Louis, Senegal

Best Time to Visit: November to May offers the most pleasant weather, with cooler temperatures and less humidity.
Currency: The local currency is the West African CFA franc (XOF). Credit cards are not widely accepted, so carry cash.
Language: French is the official language, but Wolof is widely spoken. Basic French phrases can be helpful.

Final Thoughts

St. Louis, Senegal, is a destination that captivates travelers with its mix of history, nature, and culture. Whether you’re wandering through colonial streets, enjoying a boat tour in the bird sanctuary, or indulging in Senegalese cuisine, this city promises an unforgettable experience.

If you’re ready to visit St. Louis, we offer both private and group trip options to Senegal with amazing itineraries that guarantee a complete, immersive travel experience.

Get in touch today to start planning your trip to St. Louis, Senegal!

Interested in other cities in Senegal apart from St. Louis? Read our full Senegal travel guide here.

Tags Africa, Senegal, St Louis, Travel Guide, West Africa

Africa Senegal Travel Guide West Africa

The Ultimate Senegal Travel Guide: Explore Like a Pro

Post author By ainadada
Post date January 31, 2025
No Comments on The Ultimate Senegal Travel Guide: Explore Like a Pro

I’ve been to Senegal 4 times since my first time and it gets better. I bet by now you’re already curating your 2025 travel list. Here’s a quick and informative Senegal travel guide to help you enjoy your trip.

I get this question sometimes, “why Senegal?” and my immediate retort every single time has always been, “why not Senegal?”

I’ve smelled the best incense of my life and tasted the flakiest, most delicious croissants in Senegal—but that’s not the best part of this Francophone gem. What truly makes Senegal special is its people—some of the warmest you’ll ever meet. They wear their culture proudly, and a call of “Nagadef?”—English for How are you?—rests on the corner of most lips.

Beyond its hospitality, Senegal boasts some of the best lakes (like the famous pink lake, Lac Rose), and beaches in Africa, with sun-kissed shores nearly all year round. The food? Unmatched. From sizzling plates of dibi to the freshest seafood, every meal is an experience.

While preparing for the trip, a small stash of naira exchanged for CFA francs (you’ll want cash for most markets) and a basic French phrasebook rounded out my essentials. I left Lagos for Senegal with equal parts curiosity and excitement, and I’m happy to say it turned out to be one of the best experiences of my life—on a budget, no less.

Back then, NGN 1,000 got me 1,300 CFA, but now? That same 1,000 naira is worth just 370 CFA.

Senegal Travel Guide

Preparing to Explore Senegal

If you hold a Nigerian passport (or passports from other West African countries), Senegal welcomes you with open arms and no visa requirements, thanks to ECOWAS.

Once you’ve secured your ticket, focus on packing for Senegal’s tropical climate. Like Nigeria, Senegal has two seasons — the dry season (October to May) and the rainy season (June to September). It’s currently the dry season and it gets very hot so light fabrics are a must, and comfortable sandals, sunscreen, and a wide-brimmed hat are essential for daytime exploring.

Important: Senegal is a Muslim country, so if you plan to visit areas where locals live, or around mosques and markets, be sure to dress modestly. It’s respectful to cover up, especially in these more traditional settings.

When it comes to money, you’ll want to carry cash in US dollars, as it’s easier to exchange for a better rate once you arrive in the city. You can also download PassportMoney here using my referral code LIL8970KK, which lets you exchange Naira to CFA directly on your phone via the Wave app. Upon arrival at the international airport, grab a local SIM card to set up the app, and you’ll have easy access to exchanging funds during your stay.

Getting There: By Air or Road

For most Nigerian travelers, flying is the easiest and quickest way to get to Senegal. Round-trip tickets from Lagos to Dakar typically cost from $600 and above, depending on the airline and how early you book. While direct flights are rare, flying is still the most convenient option if you’re pressed for time.

Pro tip: Be sure to use tools like Skyscanner to search for the best deals on flights and compare prices across airlines.

If you’re feeling adventurous and prefer a road trip, there’s always that option too. You can embark on a long, scenic journey from Lagos through Benin Republic, Mali, and other ECOWAS countries, all the way to Senegal. Alternatively, you can catch a direct bus to Senegal from Benin Republic.

While more affordable (ranging from $100 to $150), the road trip can take several days, and it’s a long, tiring journey. You’ll pass through multiple border crossings, so make sure your yellow card (for vaccinations) is up to date, and prepare yourself for long travel days.

What to Expect When You Arrive

Senegal is a sensory experience from the moment you land. The air carries a salty hint of the Atlantic, mingled with the aroma of cooking spices and incense. French is the official language, but you’ll hear Wolof spoken everywhere.

Senegal’s Must-Visit Cities

Dakar

The vibrant capital city of Senegal, Dakar is a dynamic hub of energy, culture, and history. It’s not just the heart of Senegal but also a hotspot for travelers from all over the world. With its thriving arts scene, lively markets like Marché Sandaga, and colorful pirogues (fishing boats) bobbing in the Atlantic, there’s always something happening in Dakar. The city pulses with the rhythms of mbalax music creating an unmistakable Senegalese soundtrack.

Pro tip: Dakar is also a surfing hotspot, with amazing beaches like Ngor, where surfers can catch waves right by the city.

Saint-Louis

Did you know that what we know as Jollof rice likely shares roots with the Senegalese dish tcheboudienne, which originated in Saint-Louis? A UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, Saint-Louis is an old colonial city that sits on the banks of the Senegal River. This historic city is known for its French colonial architecture, charming streets, and colorful buildings. Saint-Louis has a more intimate feel, perfect for those looking to escape the larger cities while still experiencing the beauty and history of Senegal. The nearby Langue de Barbarie National Park offers some of the best birdwatching in the country. A visit to Saint-Louis is like stepping into the pages of a history book.

Gorée Island

A short ferry ride from Dakar, Gorée Island holds a heavy history that shapes much of Senegal’s identity. The island was once a key hub in the transatlantic slave trade, and walking its cobblestone streets is a deeply sobering experience. The colonial-era houses, often covered with vibrant pink bougainvillea, contrast sharply with the weight of the island’s past. Visiting La Maison des Esclaves (The House of Slaves) is a must, where you can learn more about this important chapter of history. Despite its tragic past, the island’s beauty and peaceful atmosphere offer a unique blend of reflection and serenity.

Sine-Saloum

For those seeking an eco-tourism haven, Sine-Saloum offers lush landscapes, mangrove-lined waterways, and incredible birdwatching opportunities. This region, home to the Saloum Delta, is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, making it a paradise for wildlife enthusiasts. You can explore the delta by boat, visit traditional villages, and experience a slower, more peaceful pace of life. The beauty and serenity of Sine-Saloum are unmatched, offering a unique experience in Senegal’s natural landscapes.

Saly

If you’re looking for a more relaxed pace, Saly is perfect. Located just about two hours from Dakar, this coastal city offers a laid-back vibe where you can sip bissap (a refreshing hibiscus drink, similar to zobo) and listen to the sound of gentle waves. Saly is also a lively spot for nightlife, offering beachside bars, live music, and a great place to unwind after a day of exploring. The area is perfect for travelers who want to balance relaxation with fun.

What to Eat Drink / Drink

Food

Thieboudienne (Cheb-oo-jen) – Senegal’s national dish, thieboudienne, is a must-try. This hearty and flavorful dish features spiced fish, rice, and vegetables, often served with a side of tomato sauce. The mix of textures and spices will remind you of Jollof rice but with a uniquely Senegalese twist.

Yassa – Another popular dish is yassa, a flavorful chicken or fish stew made with caramelized onions and a tangy mustard-lemon sauce. It’s deliciously savory with a tangy kick that pairs wonderfully with rice.

Riz Ce Bon – Riz Ce Bon is a traditional Senegalese dish featuring plain rice topped with a mix of ingredients like dry pepper, palm oil, fish, onion sauce, mustard, and other flavorful seasonings.

Dibiterie – A favorite street food in Senegal, dibiterie is slow roasted meat, served with onions,mustard and a spicy sauce. It’s commonly eaten with a side of rice or bread, and you’ll find dibiterie vendors in almost every corner of Senegal, especially during the evenings. Perfect for anyone craving something savory and packed with flavor.

Drinks

Bottled water the most common and accessible drink in Senegal, but other local beverages you can try whil visiting include:

Bissap – A refreshing drink made from hibiscus petals, bissap is similar to Nigeria’s zobo, but it often gets a boost with flavors like mint, ginger, cloves, star anise and other spices. It’s a perfect way to cool off during hot days, and it’s incredibly popular in Senegal.

Café Touba – For coffee lovers, Café Touba is a must-try. This drink is made with freshly ground coffee beans and flavored with spices like cloves and pepper, giving it a unique and spicy twist. Personally, it’s become my favorite coffee; it’s something you can’t miss when in Senegal.

Baobab Juice (Bouye) – Made from the fruit of the iconic baobab tree, Bouye is a sweet, tangy drink a great option for a healthy pick-me-up on a warm day.

Ataya – A traditional Senegalese green tea, brewed with sugar and often served in small, shared glasses. It’s a social drink, commonly enjoyed with friends or family, and it’s typically followed by lively conversation.

Practical and Safety Tips for (Nigerian) Travelers

Travel Insurance

Nobody prays for things to go awry when they’re out of the country, but travel insurance is nice to have. It gives you extra security in case of medical emergencies, baggage loss, or even canceled flights.

Currency

Keep smaller denominations of CFA francs on hand for everyday purchases, as many vendors may not have change for large bills. However, most vendors accept payments through Wave, making it easier to complete transactions without worrying about cash.

Language

Senegal’s official language is French, but knowing a few key phrases can go a long way. Start with “Bonjour” (good morning) and “Merci” (thank you) to break the ice. Senegalese people are friendly, and making the effort to speak their language will earn you their respect.

Transportation

Taxis are common in Senegal, especially in the major cities. You can either get one yourself or ask the hotel to connect you with a local taxi driver. However, it’s always wise to negotiate the fare before you hop in.

For a more authentic experience, try the “cars rapides” – colorful, lively buses that are a hallmark of Senegalese transportation. They’re similar to Nigeria’s danfos and Kenya’s Matatus but with more vibrant artwork on the exterior and a slightly slower pace. They’re perfect for short trips around town.

Accomodation

Make sure to research well before you book accommodations. This is important for both your safety and to ensure you enjoy your trip in comfort and style. Check reviews and take them seriously.

Safety Tips

Phone Safety: Phone snatching is a common issue in some parts of the country. Always keep your windows up when using your phone in a moving vehicle. If you’re out and about, keep your phone securely in your bag or pocket.
Crowded Areas: Always hold onto your bags tightly, especially in crowded areas like markets and bus stations. Be vigilant and aware of your surroundings, as pickpockets can take advantage of busy spots.
General Awareness: Stay alert and exercise caution, particularly in unfamiliar areas. Senegal is generally safe, but like any destination, it’s better to be cautious.

Conclusion

Senegal has a way of pulling you in with its charm, history, and welcoming spirit. There are so many places to visit and things to do for every kind of traveler — you can soak up the urban culture in Dakar, reflect on history at Gorée Island, or unwind on the beaches of Saly.

This simple Senegal travel guide will ensure you get the most out of your trip. And if you’re as curious as I was, I promise the experience will exceed your expectations.

We’re going back to Senegal in April. Feeling adventorous? Join us here or let us plan you a private trip here – https://thefaraway.co/plan-a-private-trip/

Tags Africa, Senegal, Travel Guide, West Africa

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Mami Wata Ecolodge: A Culinary Journey

Post author By ainadada
Post date September 9, 2024
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At Mami Wata Ecolodge, nestled on the rugged coastline of Cape Verde, the connection between food, place, and spirit becomes an unspoken language. There’s something ineffable about how food can speak to the soul, especially when crafted with hands that have cultivated both the ingredients and the land they come from.

The moment we stepped onto the grounds of Mami Wata Ecolodge, we were enveloped in an atmosphere that felt both intimate and expansive. We were greeted with an ice-cold glass of Bissap—our first taste in Cape Verde. This wasn’t the Bissap we knew from Senegal or Nigeria; it was lighter, more refined, with a delicate balance of mint and just a hint of sweetness. It was a simple gesture, yet it set the tone for the days ahead, where each meal would offer a new layer of discovery and a deeper connection to the island.

Day 1: Sunset on the Plate

It’s dinner time, and the sun casts a warm, golden light over the ocean filling the air with tranquility. Dinner was served as the sky transitioned from blush pink to deep indigo, a backdrop that made the meal feel almost like a ritual. The starter, eggplant stuffed with cheese and tomatoes, was a comforting introduction, each bite a melding of creamy and tangy flavors that promised more delights.

Then came the main course: a pork steak that was nothing short of a revelation. Tender and juicy, it pulled away from the bone effortlessly, each bite seasoned to perfection with a sauce that whispered rather than shouted. The yam purée was the perfect companion, smooth and earthy, grounding the dish in the rich soil of the island.

And then, the finale—cocoa ice cream. It was grainy and a little unrefined. it was my first taste of this but surely not my last. It wasn’t just dessert but a moment of pure indulgence; textured and rich, a fitting end to our first night. The evening wasn’t just about the food, though. It was about the setting sun, the sounds of the waves, and the gentle presence of Alex, our bartender. Alex with his easy smile and deep knowledge of the local spirits, made every drink feel like it was crafted just for you. As he poured, he spoke of the island’s history, the ingredients sourced from local farmers, and how each cocktail showcases Cape Verde’s unique blend of cultures.

Day 2: New Flavors and Old Memories

Day two began with a breakfast spread that was a feast for the senses. As I made my way to the dining area, I passed the gardener, an elderly man whose hands were weathered by years of working the land, carefully harvesting herbs for the day’s meals. This sight was a reminder of the deep connection between the food on our plates and the earth beneath our feet—a connection that would be reflected in every dish that followed. Alex, our ever-charming bartender-turned-guide, greeted us with a warm smile and began to take us through the colorful array of breakfast platters as they arrived. The first set featured cold cuts—fresh goat cheese that tasted like it had been made just hours before, paired with sun-ripened tomatoes bursting with flavor.

Then came the breads and cakes, each bite a testament to the skill of Analise, the resident chef whose passion for her craft was evident in every detail. A standout from the morning was hummus, served with warm, freshly baked bread. The hummus was so good that we couldn’t help but ask Analise for the recipe. She handed us the recipe with a smile that crinkled the corners of her eyes, speaking of generations of Cape Verdean women who have passed down their secrets from mother to daughter, each adding a little more love along the way. “Don’t forget to add love,” she said, her voice warm and sincere, “because that’s the most important ingredient.” It was a sentiment that echoed through every dish we tasted during our stay—a reminder that in Cape Verde, food is not just sustenance; it’s an expression of care, connection, and community.

Dinner greeted us with a surprise—a menu that challenged our palates and introduced us to new flavors. The starter was banana ceviche, a dish I’d never encountered before. It was a revelation: the sweetness of the banana was elevated by the freshly harvested herbs from the lodge’s gardens, creating a mixture of unexpected and delightful flavors. The fish in foil that followed was a testament to the simplicity of fresh ingredients—juicy, tender, and seasoned to perfection, with vegetables cooked just right, retaining their bite without losing their essence.

But the true highlight came at dessert—passion fruit mousse. As someone who adores passion fruit, I feel this dish is a personal gift. It was light, tangy, and perfectly sweetened, the kind of dessert that lingers in your mind long after the meal. Each spoonful was a burst of my favorite fruit, a vibrant close to another unforgettable day at Mami Wata Ecolodge.

Day 3: A Farewell Feast with Memories to Last
Our final day at Mami Wata Ecolodge began with a breakfast that felt like a comforting embrace. The colorful spread, with its fresh herbs and vibrant fruits, was a familiar delight. Each bite was a reminder of the lodge’s dedication to showcasing the island’s flavors.

Dinner that evening was a celebration of all we had come to cherish about this special place. It began with cassava served with that unforgettable hummus, a perfect reminder of Analise’s warm-hearted cooking. The main course stewed pork with couscous and sweet potato chips, was a dish that melted in your mouth, each bite an invitation to savor the moment with your eyes closed. Dessert was once again the cocoa ice cream—familiar and comforting, yet no less delightful. It was a sweet farewell, a final taste of the flavors that had made our stay unforgettable.

Reflecting on Cape Verde’s Culinary Soul

As I look back on our time at Mami Wata, I’m struck by how deeply the experience was intertwined with the essence of its people and land. The property’s dedication to sustainability is evident in every detail—from the vibrant herbs flourishing right on-site to their thoughtful support of local farmers. Each meal is more than just food; it’s a narrative of Cape Verde’s rich soil, the hands that nurture it, and the traditions that blend into a unique culinary tapestry. Mami Wata is not merely a destination; it’s a vibrant, living story of a place where every flavor and every moment are imbued with meaning.

Mami Wata isn’t just a place to stay; it’s a place to truly experience—to taste, to feel, and to remember long after you’ve gone.

Tags Africa, Travel, West Africa

Africa Cape Verde Travel Guide West Africa

“From Many Bloods” – Cape Verde Travel Guide

Post author By ainadada
Post date August 17, 2024
No Comments on “From Many Bloods” – Cape Verde Travel Guide

Cape Verde is one of the most beautiful countries I’ve ever set foot on so here’s a Cape Verde travel guide to a seamless planning. It was no surprise to learn that Santo Antão, one of my favorite islands in Cape Verde, boasts some of the best, untouched hiking trails in the world.

One of the most intriguing things about Cape Verdeans is their physical features. For the first time, I was surrounded by West Africans with naturally blond hair and colored eyes. “Nos ancêtres étaient de sangs mêlés”—our ancestors came from many bloods—my new friend told me, his soft grey eyes made me think of a summer sunset and a cold glass of lemonade.

Roughly 70% of Cape Verdeans are descendants of Portuguese slave masters and black slaves brought in from countries like Guinea-Bissau, Sierra Leone, and Senegal. Cape Verde, a sunny archipelago off the coast of Senegal, consists of 10 islands. Initially planning to stay for two weeks, we shortened our visit to 10 days but left knowing I’d return soon. This experience has been one of my most memorable. After a full month of slowly making my way through the island and experiencing the rich culture and warm hospitality (everywhere but Sal Island), I am left with a strong desire to live here one day.

Planning Your Trip: What You Need to Know

Visa Requirements:

As a Nigerian, Cape Verde is visa-free, but you must fill out an entry form that costs $30 at least 5 days before your trip as recommended on their website. We completed the form 4 days prior both times – and we didn’t have any challenges getting in. We were anxious the whole way so I recommend sticking to the 5-day rule. Also be prepared to show proof of return tickets, yellow card, funds, and accommodation bookings.

Getting There

Currently, there are no direct flights from Nigeria to Cape Verde. We flew Air Peace from Lagos to Senegal, then connected with Air Senegal to Cape Verde. This is a perfect chance to combine two countries, as you can add a quick tour of Dakar on either leg of your trip. It’s a half-full or half-empty situation depending on how you see it. If you’re flying in from Senegal, you’ll be arriving either via Praia (Nelson Mandela International Airport) or Sal (Amílcar Cabral International Airport)

Planning Your Itinerary

The key thing to know about Cape Verde is that traveling between islands isn’t straightforward. Flights / ferries between the 10 Islands are irregular and often get canceled. If you plan to explore more than 3 islands, make sure to leave buffer days to accomodate sudden itinerary changes.

The Islands We Explored:

Praia: Here we experienced the authentic Cape Verdean lifestyle in the capital city. It’s perfect if you want to dive into local culture and get a little insight into everyday Cape Verde.
Fogo Island: Known for its active volcano, last erupting in 2014, it is also Cape Verde’s highest-standing island. The highest point here gave me a taste of what altitude sickness feels like!
Sal Island: The most touristy of all the islands, with resorts, white sand beaches, and sparkling blue waters. However, it’s also where I experienced some prejudice for possibly being Black / Nigerian. Flying in through Sal is ideal if you’re into nightlife and beach vibes.
São Vicente: Mindelo, the capital of São Vicente, is often referred to as the cultural capital of Cape Verde, and it lives up to that name. it’s also where I found the bluest beach I’ve ever seen – Praia da Laginha
Santo Antão: This island truly blew my mind. It’s home to some of the most stunning and untouched landscapes I’ve ever seen.

The other Islands we haven’t visited yet include – Sao Nicolau, Maio, Boavista, Santiago and Santa Luzia Island.

What to Eat

Cape Verde’s culinary scene is a vibrant reflection of its rich cultural heritage and island life. From hearty stews that warm the soul to crispy pastries with a kick, the flavors of Cape Verde are as diverse and inviting as their landscapes. Dive into these delectable dishes and discover why Cape Verdean cuisine is a feast for both the palate and the heart.

Cachupa: Savor the heart of Cape Verdean cuisine with this slow-cooked stew made from hominy, beans, and a mix of meats or fish. Each bite is a comforting taste of tradition.
Pastel com diabo dentro: Dive into these crispy pastries filled with spicy tuna, aptly named “Pastry with the Devil Inside.” A deliciously fiery snack that packs a punch.
Goat Cheese: Enjoy the rich, creamy flavor of Cape Verdean goat cheese, often served fresh or aged. Perfect on its own or paired with local honey and bread.
Fish: Experience the fresh taste of Cape Verde’s abundant waters with grilled or fried fish, often served with rice, potatoes, and vegetables. A staple of the island’s diet.
Doce de papaya com queijo: Treat yourself to a sweet finish with this dessert made of papaya jam paired with local cheese. A perfect balance of sweetness and tanginess.

Getting Around in Cape Verde

Traveling between islands can be cumbersome. The most seamless connection is between Santo Antão and São Vicente, with frequent ferries and the trip is about 50 minutes each way. For other islands, your best bet is to fly, as ferries are unreliable. The ferry website information is also nothing to go by. Intra-island transfers are easier with Cape Verde’s developed public transport system—collectifs (shared mini-buses) are a budget-friendly option. Private cabs are available but can be expensive.

Where to Stay

Depending on your chosen islands, there are decent Airbnb and hotel options available. Check out our guide for accommodation recommendations in Cape Verde.

Safety Tips

Cape Verde felt safe during our visit, and the people were friendly. While you might run into a few unusual characters, we had no serious safety concerns. Exercise caution by avoiding late-night walks in isolated areas – especially in Praia the capital.

Want to explore Cape Verde with us? Join a group trip or let us plan your trip.

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