We arrived in Saint‑Louis, Senegal expecting the usual, but Au fil Du Fleuve was an extraordinary experience.
This wasn’t our first visit, I’ve wandered half the city on previous trips, enough to feel I knew its rhythm. But this time we chose to stay at Au Fil Du Fleuve, and that decision changed everything.
Over our welcome platter; bean beignets (acarajé in Senegal, akara for us in Nigeria) and little fish pies that, I have to admit, were the most delicious I’ve ever had—Marie‑Caroline began to tell us her story.
A Little Bit of History
The building itself was once a 19th‑century warehouse for Arabic gum before it was lovingly restored. You can still feel its past in the bones of the walls and the echo of its high ceilings, but it’s Marie‑Caroline Camara’s presence that gives the space its soul. She’s the owner, yes, but more than that, she’s a quiet force behind this beautiful rebirth.
She told us how she was born to a French mother and a Senegalese father. After spending a good part of her life abroad, she walked away from a corporate life in France because she wanted to rebuild ties with her father’s homeland and make sure her children would always stay connected to their African heritage.
You see that passion in every tile, every thread, and every scent at Au Fil Du Fleuve. She didn’t just restore a building—she revived a memory. And in doing so, she created something intimate and alive.
Inside Au Fil Du Fleuve
Now that you know a bit about its history, let’s step inside. The guesthouse is tucked away in the island’s historical quarter and has just five rooms and suites. Everything from the light fixtures, chairs, mirror frames, even the linens has been thoughtfully curated or custom‑designed by Marie‑Caroline and brought to life by local artisans. The result is a space that feels deeply authentic and celebrates local artisans.
Saint‑Louis is a UNESCO World Heritage Site along the Senegal River, and so Marie‑Caroline renovated the property in line with preservation rules to maintain the island’s historical integrity.
From the moment you step through those tall wooden doors, it feels like you’re crossing into another era. Yet nothing about it feels dated. The guest rooms are clean, serene and sunlit, with airy fabrics and rich wood that serve a purpose while still honoring the history of the house.
Au Fil Du Fleuve’s Dedication to Culture
Since opening in 2013, Au Fil Du Fleuve has been more than a guesthouse. It’s a place that showcases Senegalese artisanship, African literature, contemporary art, and traditional cuisine—a way to amplify local creatives and support the community in a sustainable way.
They host regular exhibitions of contemporary African art, and there’s a library full of African literature in a shared space for guests to enjoy. But their true specialty is the food.
Breakfast each morning is a spread of African delicacies, and dinners are traditional Senegalese meals cooked with local ingredients and recipes handed down through generations. Honestly, they serve the best breakfast in Saint‑Louis.
Before dinnertime, she sets out a little table with homemade drinks and snacks for the day. This gives you an opportunity to connect with her as a host, and with other guests.
Marie‑Caroline also hosts cooking classes, taking guests with her to the market to pick out ingredients before teaching them how to prepare classics like thieboudienne — Saint‑Louis’s UNESCO‑recognized rice and fish dish, and the grand ancestor of jollof rice.
A few years ago, Au Fil Du Fleuve was even featured on Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown, in an episode dedicated to Senegal. That tells you just how integral food is to its story.
The City Beyond the Walls
Saint‑Louis itself is a treasure trove. Musicians, dancers, antique dealers, and painters make up the heart of the island.
The annual Saint‑Louis Jazz Festival—Africa’s largest—is still on our bucket list, and we hope to tick that off on our next trip. If you decide to visit, we’ve put together a guide to help you navigate Saint‑Louis like a local. You can read it here.
Marie‑Caroline spoke passionately about the role of secondary towns like Saint‑Louis in giving visitors a deeper, more grounded understanding of Senegal. In recent years, she said, Au Fil Du Fleuve has welcomed a growing number of Black travelers—many drawn not just to the guesthouse, but to the island itself. It’s a sign that more people in the Black diaspora are looking for connection, context, and cultural depth through travel. And it’s no surprise, given Saint‑Louis’s unique place in Senegal’s colonial history.
A Home Away from Home
What stands out the most about Au Fil Du Fleuve isn’t even the aesthetics or the food—it’s the atmosphere of intentional care. Everything felt personal. Not performative. Not transactional. Just human.
And that’s the magic of places like this. They remind us that travel isn’t always about escape. Sometimes, it’s about returning to and reconnecting with cultural roots. And thanks to Marie‑Caroline, Saint‑Louis now has a space that allows people to do just that—with grace.
If you ever find yourself in Saint‑Louis, don’t just pass through. Stay, and let Au Fil Du Fleuve show you what it means to be hosted, not just housed. You can read more about this magical guesthouse or book a stay by visiting their website.
If you’re a nature lover, someone who enjoys learning about African history, or just looking for the authentic Senegalese experience, you must include St Louis on your itinerary. This is especially best if you have more than 5 days to spend in Senegal. Here’s your ultimate guide to the best things to do in St. Louis.
Getting There
St. Louis is located in northern Senegal, about 320 km from Dakar. The most common way to get there is by road. You can take a bus or a shared taxi from the Gare Routière des Beaux Maraîchers in Dakar at approximately 5000CFA per person for a 4-5 hour journey.
If you prefer more comfort, private car hires are available for as low as $30 per day (for small cars) to as much as $300 per day for larger, premium SUVs. While there’s no commercial airport in St. Louis, travelers can fly into Dakar’s Blaise Diagne International Airport and continue the journey by road.
Things To Do in St. Louis, Senegal
1. Explore the Historic Old Town
Walking through the narrow streets of St. Louis feels like stepping into a living museum. The pastel-colored colonial buildings, wrought-iron balconies, and wooden shutters reflect its French colonial past.
Visit the Musée de Saint-Louis to get a deeper look into the city’s history and stop by Place Faidherbe, the central square lined with historic buildings. The charm of Old Town isn’t just in its architecture but in the friendly locals who bring the city to life with their culture and music.
2. Visit the Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary
Just an hour’s drive from St. Louis lies Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary, one of the world’s most important wetlands and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This sprawling reserve is home to over three million migratory birds, including pink flamingos, pelicans, herons, and cormorants. Take a boat trip through the waterways for an up-close experience with Senegal’s rich birdlife and spot crocodiles, warthogs, and even the occasional monitor lizard.
3. Stroll Along the Faidherbe Bridge
Connecting St. Louis Island to the mainland, Faidherbe Bridge is an engineering marvel with a fascinating backstory. Originally believed to be designed by Gustave Eiffel, the bridge was actually imported from France in the 19th century. Walking across it offers panoramic views of the Senegal River, fishing boats, and the old town’s skyline, making it a great spot for photography, especially at sunset.
4. Experience Local Life at the Fisherman’s Quarter
For an authentic taste of Senegalese daily life, head to Guet Ndar, the lively fisherman’s quarter. This area is a sensory feast—wooden fishing boats painted in vibrant hues line the shores, fishermen haul in their catch, and the aroma of grilled seafood fills the air. It’s a fantastic place to interact with locals, capture stunning photos, and witness the energy of St. Louis’s fishing industry.
5. Experience the Saint-Louis Jazz Festival
If you’re visiting in May, don’t miss the Saint-Louis Jazz Festival, one of Africa’s most prestigious music events. The city comes alive with the sounds of jazz, blues, and traditional African rhythms, drawing artists and music lovers from around the world. Even outside the festival season, live music is a staple in St. Louis, with plenty of bars and clubs offering a lively nightlife scene.
6. Take a Boat Trip on the Senegal River
A boat trip along the Senegal River offers a different perspective of St. Louis, gliding past mangroves, traditional villages, and herds of grazing cattle. Some tours even include visits to small islands where you can interact with local communities and learn about their way of life.
7. Explore Langue de Barbarie National Park
Just south of St. Louis, Langue de Barbarie National Park is a paradise for nature lovers. This narrow strip of land between the Atlantic Ocean and the Senegal River is home to diverse wildlife, including pelicans, flamingos, and sea turtles. The park’s clean beaches make it an ideal spot for relaxation or birdwatching excursions.
8. Discover the Island of Sor
Located across the bridge from the old town, Sor is a bustling district with markets, craft shops, and local eateries. It’s less touristy than the historic center, providing a more immersive experience of contemporary Senegalese life. Visit the Marché de Sor to shop for handmade crafts, colorful fabrics, and unique souvenirs.
9. Learn About St. Louis’s Slave History
St. Louis played a significant role in the transatlantic slave trade, and while much of its dark past has been erased, some remnants remain. Guided tours can take you through key sites, offering a sobering but important perspective on the city’s history.
10. Enjoy the Local Cuisine
St. Louis offers some of Senegal’s most delicious cuisine. Be sure to try Thiéboudienne (the grand ancestor from which jollof rice originates from), Senegal’s national dish of fish and rice, flavored with tomatoes and spices. Yassa poulet, a marinated chicken dish with onions and mustard, is another local favorite. If you’re feeling adventurous, sample mafé, a peanut-based stew served with meat and rice.
Given its coastal location, St. Louis will always have fresh seafood. Try the grilled prawns, barracuda, or octopus at one of the riverside restaurants. Pair your meal with bissap, a hibiscus-infused drink popular throughout Senegal.
Where to Eat
St. Louis offers a variety of dining options, ranging from traditional Senegalese cuisine to international flavors. Some top-rated spots include:
La Résidence – A stylish restaurant offering a mix of French and Senegalese dishes in a charming colonial-style setting.
Flamingo – Overlooking the river, this restaurant is known for its fresh seafood and relaxed ambiance.
La Kora Chez Peggy – A cozy spot that serves delicious homemade Senegalese meals with a welcoming atmosphere.
Chez Dasso – A local favorite serving authentic thiéboudienne and other traditional Senegalese dishes.
Where to Stay in St. Louis
St. Louis offers a variety of accommodations to suit different budgets, from affordable guesthouses to upscale hotels with premium amenities.
Budget-Friendly Stays
If you’re looking for a comfortable stay without breaking the bank, these options offer great value:
Siki Hotel – A charming and affordable guesthouse with a welcoming atmosphere.
Ndar Ndar House – A cozy, budget-friendly option with a communal feel, perfect for backpackers and solo travelers.
Cap Saint-Louis – A relaxed, low-cost hotel conveniently located near the city center.
Upscale & Luxury Stays
For a more refined experience, these hotels provide top-notch service, elegant settings, and stunning views:
Au Fil du Fleuve – A beautifully restored colonial house offering a boutique experience with artistic decor.
Hôtel de la Poste – A historic hotel with colonial charm and breathtaking views of the Senegal River.
La Résidence – A stylish boutique hotel with elegant rooms, a tranquil courtyard, and an on-site restaurant.
Diamarek Hotel – Located on the Langue de Barbarie, this beachfront hotel boasts modern amenities and a serene coastal vibe.
Best Shops to Visit
Shopping in St. Louis is a unique experience, with plenty of opportunities to buy authentic Senegalese crafts and souvenirs. Having explored the city myself, I can say that each shop offers something special:
Aux Délices de St. Louis – A bakery known for its fresh pastries and rich, buttery croissants, perfect for breakfast or an afternoon treat.
Librairie Clairafrique – A charming bookstore stocked with African literature, history books, and travel guides, ideal for book lovers.
Galerie Arte – A great spot for locally made paintings, sculptures, and textiles, reflecting the artistic soul of St. Louis.
Village Artisanal – This craft market offers handmade jewelry, woven baskets, and leather goods, all crafted by local artisans.
Marché de St. Louis – The city’s central market is the best place to experience local commerce and find everything from spices to traditional fabrics.
Practical Travel Tips for Visiting St. Louis, Senegal
Best Time to Visit: November to May offers the most pleasant weather, with cooler temperatures and less humidity.
Currency: The local currency is the West African CFA franc (XOF). Credit cards are not widely accepted, so carry cash.
Language: French is the official language, but Wolof is widely spoken. Basic French phrases can be helpful.
Final Thoughts
St. Louis, Senegal, is a destination that captivates travelers with its mix of history, nature, and culture. Whether you’re wandering through colonial streets, enjoying a boat tour in the bird sanctuary, or indulging in Senegalese cuisine, this city promises an unforgettable experience.
If you’re ready to visit St. Louis, we offer both private and group trip options to Senegal with amazing itineraries that guarantee a complete, immersive travel experience.
Get in touch today to start planning your trip to St. Louis, Senegal!
Interested in other cities in Senegal apart from St. Louis? Read our full Senegal travel guide here.
I’ve been to Senegal 4 times since my first time and it gets better. I bet by now you’re already curating your 2025 travel list. Here’s a quick and informative Senegal travel guide to help you enjoy your trip.
I get this question sometimes, “why Senegal?” and my immediate retort every single time has always been, “why not Senegal?”
I’ve smelled the best incense of my life and tasted the flakiest, most delicious croissants in Senegal—but that’s not the best part of this Francophone gem. What truly makes Senegal special is its people—some of the warmest you’ll ever meet. They wear their culture proudly, and a call of “Nagadef?”—English for How are you?—rests on the corner of most lips.
Beyond its hospitality, Senegal boasts some of the best lakes (like the famous pink lake, Lac Rose), and beaches in Africa, with sun-kissed shores nearly all year round. The food? Unmatched. From sizzling plates of dibi to the freshest seafood, every meal is an experience.
While preparing for the trip, a small stash of naira exchanged for CFA francs (you’ll want cash for most markets) and a basic French phrasebook rounded out my essentials. I left Lagos for Senegal with equal parts curiosity and excitement, and I’m happy to say it turned out to be one of the best experiences of my life—on a budget, no less.
Back then, NGN 1,000 got me 1,300 CFA, but now? That same 1,000 naira is worth just 370 CFA.
Senegal Travel Guide
Preparing to Explore Senegal
If you hold a Nigerian passport (or passports from other West African countries), Senegal welcomes you with open arms and no visa requirements, thanks to ECOWAS.
Once you’ve secured your ticket, focus on packing for Senegal’s tropical climate. Like Nigeria, Senegal has two seasons — the dry season (October to May) and the rainy season (June to September). It’s currently the dry season and it gets very hot so light fabrics are a must, and comfortable sandals, sunscreen, and a wide-brimmed hat are essential for daytime exploring.
Important: Senegal is a Muslim country, so if you plan to visit areas where locals live, or around mosques and markets, be sure to dress modestly. It’s respectful to cover up, especially in these more traditional settings.
When it comes to money, you’ll want to carry cash in US dollars, as it’s easier to exchange for a better rate once you arrive in the city. You can also download PassportMoneyhere using my referral code LIL8970KK, which lets you exchange Naira to CFA directly on your phone via the Wave app. Upon arrival at the international airport, grab a local SIM card to set up the app, and you’ll have easy access to exchanging funds during your stay.
Getting There: By Air or Road
For most Nigerian travelers, flying is the easiest and quickest way to get to Senegal. Round-trip tickets from Lagos to Dakar typically cost from $600 and above, depending on the airline and how early you book. While direct flights are rare, flying is still the most convenient option if you’re pressed for time.
Pro tip: Be sure to use tools like Skyscanner to search for the best deals on flights and compare prices across airlines.
If you’re feeling adventurous and prefer a road trip, there’s always that option too. You can embark on a long, scenic journey from Lagos through Benin Republic, Mali, and other ECOWAS countries, all the way to Senegal. Alternatively, you can catch a direct bus to Senegal from Benin Republic.
While more affordable (ranging from $100 to $150), the road trip can take several days, and it’s a long, tiring journey. You’ll pass through multiple border crossings, so make sure your yellow card (for vaccinations) is up to date, and prepare yourself for long travel days.
What to Expect When You Arrive
Senegal is a sensory experience from the moment you land. The air carries a salty hint of the Atlantic, mingled with the aroma of cooking spices and incense. French is the official language, but you’ll hear Wolof spoken everywhere.
Senegal’s Must-Visit Cities
Dakar
The vibrant capital city of Senegal, Dakar is a dynamic hub of energy, culture, and history. It’s not just the heart of Senegal but also a hotspot for travelers from all over the world. With its thriving arts scene, lively markets like Marché Sandaga, and colorful pirogues (fishing boats) bobbing in the Atlantic, there’s always something happening in Dakar. The city pulses with the rhythms of mbalax music creating an unmistakable Senegalese soundtrack.
Pro tip: Dakar is also a surfing hotspot, with amazing beaches like Ngor, where surfers can catch waves right by the city.
Saint-Louis
Did you know that what we know as Jollof rice likely shares roots with the Senegalese dish tcheboudienne, which originated in Saint-Louis? A UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, Saint-Louis is an old colonial city that sits on the banks of the Senegal River. This historic city is known for its French colonial architecture, charming streets, and colorful buildings. Saint-Louis has a more intimate feel, perfect for those looking to escape the larger cities while still experiencing the beauty and history of Senegal. The nearby Langue de Barbarie National Park offers some of the best birdwatching in the country. A visit to Saint-Louis is like stepping into the pages of a history book.
Gorée Island
A short ferry ride from Dakar, Gorée Island holds a heavy history that shapes much of Senegal’s identity. The island was once a key hub in the transatlantic slave trade, and walking its cobblestone streets is a deeply sobering experience. The colonial-era houses, often covered with vibrant pink bougainvillea, contrast sharply with the weight of the island’s past. Visiting La Maison des Esclaves (The House of Slaves) is a must, where you can learn more about this important chapter of history. Despite its tragic past, the island’s beauty and peaceful atmosphere offer a unique blend of reflection and serenity.
Sine-Saloum
For those seeking an eco-tourism haven, Sine-Saloum offers lush landscapes, mangrove-lined waterways, and incredible birdwatching opportunities. This region, home to the Saloum Delta, is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, making it a paradise for wildlife enthusiasts. You can explore the delta by boat, visit traditional villages, and experience a slower, more peaceful pace of life. The beauty and serenity of Sine-Saloum are unmatched, offering a unique experience in Senegal’s natural landscapes.
Saly
If you’re looking for a more relaxed pace, Saly is perfect. Located just about two hours from Dakar, this coastal city offers a laid-back vibe where you can sip bissap (a refreshing hibiscus drink, similar to zobo) and listen to the sound of gentle waves. Saly is also a lively spot for nightlife, offering beachside bars, live music, and a great place to unwind after a day of exploring. The area is perfect for travelers who want to balance relaxation with fun.
What to Eat Drink / Drink
Food
Thieboudienne (Cheb-oo-jen) – Senegal’s national dish, thieboudienne, is a must-try. This hearty and flavorful dish features spiced fish, rice, and vegetables, often served with a side of tomato sauce. The mix of textures and spices will remind you of Jollof rice but with a uniquely Senegalese twist.
Yassa – Another popular dish is yassa, a flavorful chicken or fish stew made with caramelized onions and a tangy mustard-lemon sauce. It’s deliciously savory with a tangy kick that pairs wonderfully with rice.
Riz Ce Bon – Riz Ce Bon is a traditional Senegalese dish featuring plain rice topped with a mix of ingredients like dry pepper, palm oil, fish, onion sauce, mustard, and other flavorful seasonings.
Dibiterie – A favorite street food in Senegal, dibiterie is slow roasted meat, served with onions,mustard and a spicy sauce. It’s commonly eaten with a side of rice or bread, and you’ll find dibiterie vendors in almost every corner of Senegal, especially during the evenings. Perfect for anyone craving something savory and packed with flavor.
Drinks
Bottled water the most common and accessible drink in Senegal, but other local beverages you can try whil visiting include:
Bissap – A refreshing drink made from hibiscus petals, bissap is similar to Nigeria’s zobo, but it often gets a boost with flavors like mint, ginger, cloves, star anise and other spices. It’s a perfect way to cool off during hot days, and it’s incredibly popular in Senegal.
Café Touba – For coffee lovers, Café Touba is a must-try. This drink is made with freshly ground coffee beans and flavored with spices like cloves and pepper, giving it a unique and spicy twist. Personally, it’s become my favorite coffee; it’s something you can’t miss when in Senegal.
Baobab Juice (Bouye) – Made from the fruit of the iconic baobab tree, Bouye is a sweet, tangy drink a great option for a healthy pick-me-up on a warm day.
Ataya – A traditional Senegalese green tea, brewed with sugar and often served in small, shared glasses. It’s a social drink, commonly enjoyed with friends or family, and it’s typically followed by lively conversation.
Practical and Safety Tips for (Nigerian) Travelers
Travel Insurance
Nobody prays for things to go awry when they’re out of the country, but travel insurance is nice to have. It gives you extra security in case of medical emergencies, baggage loss, or even canceled flights.
Currency
Keep smaller denominations of CFA francs on hand for everyday purchases, as many vendors may not have change for large bills. However, most vendors accept payments through Wave, making it easier to complete transactions without worrying about cash.
Language
Senegal’s official language is French, but knowing a few key phrases can go a long way. Start with “Bonjour” (good morning) and “Merci” (thank you) to break the ice. Senegalese people are friendly, and making the effort to speak their language will earn you their respect.
Transportation
Taxis are common in Senegal, especially in the major cities. You can either get one yourself or ask the hotel to connect you with a local taxi driver. However, it’s always wise to negotiate the fare before you hop in.
For a more authentic experience, try the “cars rapides” – colorful, lively buses that are a hallmark of Senegalese transportation. They’re similar to Nigeria’s danfos and Kenya’s Matatus but with more vibrant artwork on the exterior and a slightly slower pace. They’re perfect for short trips around town.
Accomodation
Make sure to research well before you book accommodations. This is important for both your safety and to ensure you enjoy your trip in comfort and style. Check reviews and take them seriously.
Safety Tips
Phone Safety: Phone snatching is a common issue in some parts of the country. Always keep your windows up when using your phone in a moving vehicle. If you’re out and about, keep your phone securely in your bag or pocket.
Crowded Areas: Always hold onto your bags tightly, especially in crowded areas like markets and bus stations. Be vigilant and aware of your surroundings, as pickpockets can take advantage of busy spots.
General Awareness: Stay alert and exercise caution, particularly in unfamiliar areas. Senegal is generally safe, but like any destination, it’s better to be cautious.
Conclusion
Senegal has a way of pulling you in with its charm, history, and welcoming spirit. There are so many places to visit and things to do for every kind of traveler — you can soak up the urban culture in Dakar, reflect on history at Gorée Island, or unwind on the beaches of Saly.
This simple Senegal travel guide will ensure you get the most out of your trip. And if you’re as curious as I was, I promise the experience will exceed your expectations.
