On a 1950s hand-made multi-colored leather couch, after 2-3 hours of clattering away on my computer with only the whiteness of the symphony of waves crashing over the shore, I had just sent my client a final brief on a social media project. I looked outside, over the Atlantic at Saly – I am vacationing while working. Senegal is an exciting French country full of diverse experiences to discover for expats.
As a Digital Nomad, I have found Senegal to be a truly relaxing destination. For a young lady traumatized by Lagos, the calm and serene atmosphere was therapeutic and my Airbnb flat had a large window that let me soak in all of that magic.
I wondered how many other young people around the world would dig this lifestyle. The rich music, and vibrant art scenes that includes endless murals splattered on buildings across the streets, offer a unique opportunity to immerse oneself in the romance of francophone West Africa.
I also wondered about the belief that one cannot have a fulfilling vacation within Africa or even, West Africa.
Join our group trip through Senegal, Gambia and Cape Verde
Let’s Do The Basics: Yaangi noos
One Thursday, I was craving ice cream at about 1am and mentioned to my Airbnb host Kareem who was treating us to beer and a Senegalese delicacy – dibiterie which is basically slow-roasted meat.
After we ate, he told us in his broken English that a cab was waiting for us outside. We huddled in, half upset that we were now going out without being informed before 2am, but also excited at the prospect of finding ice cream by 2am.
The drive around town revealed a rural cityscape, dusty inner untarred streets strewn with cars that led to well-paved central roads. The Senegalese take a laid-back approach to life, you can tell with their focus on communal spaces. Large courtyards designed to host visitors are common features in their homes. Big on tea, coffee, and enjoyment; they take life easy. While it ranks below Nigeria in Human Development Index, and sheer Industrial infrastructure– Senegalese life expectancy clears most of West Africa being 67 years compared to Nigeria’s 52, and Mali’s 58 years.
Once we got into an area called Almadies, we were welcomed by a version of the city we didn’t expect. All the stores that were open during the day were open now, but even more now the streets were crawling with people trying to make their way into the different bars and clubs next to each other.
After we ate ice cream, we found ourselves wiggling our waists and negotiating how much more alcohol to drink in three of the said clubs. By 4am, we decided it was time to go home and when we stepped outside, Kareem asked me in his broken English if we were interested in hitting yet another club. Life on the streets was showing no signs of slowing down
“Yaangi noos” – Hope you’re enjoying life? Kareem calls out at the top of his lungs. By now we were with 3 of his friends – 2 Senegalese locals, and a German guy in his 70s that was struggling to keep up.
“Oui Kareem. We are “I bellowed back. How are there so many people out at this time of the night? Is it safe?
“Lily! Senegal is a town of no sleeping. You walk around by 2am and you see people everywhere”
Sarah, my Ivorian friend who has a restaurant in the city will argue that it is unsafe for women to be out alone at some times of the day, and I will agree that solo female travelers must take precautions at all times.
Cost Of Living
The standard… and cost of living in Senegal vary significantly depending on where you choose to live. Living in the nation’s capital Dakar is the most expensive option available; rent for a one-bedroom apartment in the heart of the city ranges from $500 to $2,000 USD a month. However, if money is tight, you can find more affordable lodging options in areas outside the city center like Pikine, Rufisque, or Guediawaye, where you can rent a room in a shared apartment for as little as $150 to $250 USD per month.
With monthly rent for a one-bedroom apartment ranging from $400 to $800 USD, if you’re seeking a slower-paced area to live in, the coastal town of Saly is a popular option among expats and retirees. If you’re looking for a more sedate and genuine experience, you may perhaps visit Saint-Louis, a medieval city in northern Senegal. A one-bedroom apartment in the heart of the city may rent for between $250 and $500 USD a month.
In Senegal, Wi-Fi is readily accessible in both private residences and workplaces, as well as in public locations including cafes, hotels, and airports. Depending on the service provider and the package selected, Wi-Fi in Senegal might cost different amounts.
The typical monthly cost of Wi-Fi in Senegal can, however, range from about 15,000 CFA francs to 50,000 CFA francs, or roughly 25 to 85 US dollars. It’s crucial to keep in mind that this is only an estimate, and costs could change based on location and internet provider.
Visa Information
One important thing to note is that Nigerians can secure a visa on arrival in Senegal, with a validity of up to 3 months. This means that you can simply obtain your visa when you arrive in Senegal without having to apply in advance.
However, it is important to note that you will need to have certain documents in order to obtain the visa on arrival in Senegal. These include a valid Nigerian passport, a return ticket, proof of accommodation, and proof of sufficient funds to support your stay in Senegal. You may also be required to provide a yellow fever vaccination certificate.
If you wish to extend your stay in Senegal beyond the validity of your visa, you may consider taking a short trip to neighboring Cape Verde, which also offers a visa on arrival for Nigerians. This could be a great opportunity to explore another beautiful African country and add more adventure to your journey.
What To Do
If you find yourself with free time during your stay in Senegal, there are numerous things to explore. The country’s national parks are a must-visit destination, offering the opportunity to see a variety of exotic wildlife such as elephants, monkeys, and lions. For history buffs, Gorée Island is an excellent place to visit, with its centuries-old architecture and haunting slave trade museums.
The pink lake of Retba, also known as Lac Rose, is another popular destination, with its unique color caused by high salt concentration. Additionally, you can visit Dakar’s colorful markets, where you can find locally made textiles, jewelry, and traditional crafts. Finally, don’t forget to try out some of Senegal’s delicious cuisine, such as thieboudienne – the authentic Jollof rice, or yassa poulet, a chicken dish with onion and mustard sauce.
Weekend 1: St. Louis
Saint-Louis is a medieval city in northern Senegal that’s brimming with history, culture, and charm. This vibrant city is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a melting pot of French, African, and Moorish influences, making it an ideal destination for travelers who are interested in exploring Senegal’s rich heritage.
Day 1:
You can wander through the narrow streets of the city’s old quarter, where colonial-era buildings, colorful murals, and lively markets create a vivid and vibrant atmosphere that’s truly unforgettable. Take a sunset boat ride on the Senegal River.
Day 2:
Explore the Old Town, these sights are worth checking out; the Governor’s Palace, the Cathedral, the grand mosque, and Faidherbe Bridge (a road bridge over the Sénégal River that links the island of the city of Saint Louis in Senegal to the African mainland) and Mupho Saint Louis.
Day 3:
Take a traditional fishing boat tour of the Langue de Barbarie National Park and enjoy the beautiful landscapes.
Budget:
A rough estimate for this itinerary would be around $ 200 USD per person, including accommodations, meals, and activities.
Weekend 2: Saly
Saly is a much more relaxed part of Senegal and I recommend you split your time between Dakar and Saly if you’re looking for some peace and quiet.
Day 1:
Relax on the beautiful beaches of Saly and go for a swim in the Atlantic Ocean.
Day 2:
Take a day trip to the Bandia Wildlife Reserve and go on a safari to see giraffes, rhinos, and other wildlife.
Day 3:
Explore the nearby Joal-Fadiouth fishing village and take a boat tour of the Saloum Delta.
Budget:
A rough estimate for this itinerary would be around $150-200 USD per person, including accommodations, meals, and activities (excluding safari)
Weekend 3: Gorée Island
Goree Island is a small island located off the coast of Senegal, just a short ferry ride from the city of Dakar. The island has a rich history as a center of the transatlantic slave trade, and many visitors come to learn about this dark chapter in history. You can easily explore this on a day trip from Dakar.
Visit the House of Slaves museum and learn about the history of the Atlantic slave trade on Gorée Island. Take a walking tour of the island’s colonial architecture and visit the local arts and crafts markets.
Relax on the island’s beautiful beaches and enjoy a seafood dinner at one of the local restaurants.
Budget: A rough estimate for this itinerary would be around $100-150 USD per person, including accommodations, meals, and activities.
Total Monthly budget $1000 – $3000
Accommodation – $500 – $2000 From shared hostels to a room in a shared apartment and furnished studio apartments, there are several budget options available.
Living expenses – $300
Ground Transportation and tours – Variable
As you gear up for your digital nomad escapade in Senegal, there is a myriad of experiences awaiting you. Let the enchantment of this West African gem become a chapter in your nomadic journey. Your Senegalese adventure awaits – bon voyage!